![]() For Portia, who is perpetually antagonised by her wealthy boss Tanya, “no problemo” conveys the can-do attitude of a perfect assistant.Īnother key driver in the rise of sloganwear is that they “look fucking great online,” says Madeleine Kunkle, founder of Hollywood Gifts – the label behind Fox’s “starfucker” tank. It also “felt very Portia because she’s an assistant, and everyone wears a little bit of who they want to be in Italy,” she says, referring to the striver sensibilities of many White Lotus characters. “The more random it is, the more interesting it is.” Take the “no problemo” sweatshirt she dressed Portia in: Bovaird sees it as akin to “wearing a really obscure band T-shirt” – a way to telegraph your taste and find others who share your sensibility without actively searching for them. ![]() She says there is something about these new, popular ones that is “hyper-specific and irrelevant, so they are working on many levels”. Slogan tees have been a thing for as long as Alex Bovaird, the White Lotus costume designer can remember. Lingua Franca sold painfully tone-deaf £300 “poverty is sexist” jumpers Dior charged £650 for “we should all be feminists” tees, while House of Holland became known for tonally bizarre, aggressively sexual tees bearing phrases such as “suck on my toe, Phoebe Philo” and “let’s breed, Bella Hadid”.ĭior’s 2017 ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-shirt carried a different vibe to today’s sloganwear. It’s a canny barb – if 2020s sloganwear is earnest in its message but sarcastic in tone, and almost obscurantist in vibe, the statement tees worn by millennials tended towards the peppy but shallow, embodying the glib optimism of Obama-era politics. In the show’s final episode, one character rips into the “future is female” tees popularised around the time of Hillary Clinton’s 2016 presidential run, suggesting that they were as meaningless as “free beer tomorrow” shirts. Today’s slogan tees almost feel like a reaction to the daggy sloganwear that dominated millennial fashion, and which has been back in the spotlight of late thanks to the bougie Brooklyn mums of the Disney Plus drama Fleishman Is in Trouble, who wear tank tops that read “rosé all dé” and “boss bitch”. Shirts run the gamut from the inscrutable – a “Men in Music Conference” tee by the Los Angeles-based Hollywood Gifts will only make sense to die-hard Lana Del Rey fans – to broad-based and cheekily transgressive, such as the “fag” sweatshirt sold by Boycrazy, a Los Angeles label that “celebrates queerness”.Ĭlaire Danes wearing a ‘You Can Go Home Now’ T-shirt in the TV series Fleishman is in Trouble. The Instagram feeds of fashionable twentysomethings, too, are filled with “God’s favorite” handbags and “father, son, holy spirit” bikinis – both by the edgy American streetwear brand Praying. Olivia Rodrigo is “God’s favorite”, while Julia Fox, who shot to fame after briefly dating Kanye West, is a “starfucker”. ![]() Shortly after New York magazine published its deep-dive into the world of Hollywood “nepo babies”, Hailey Bieber, daughter of actor Stephen Baldwin, wore a top that read, simply, “nepo baby”. When she walked into a Brits afterparty empty-handed earlier this month, her shirt announced she was a “real winner”. On the day her last album was released, British pop star Charli XCX was papped wearing a tee reading “They don’t build statues of critics”. Photograph: Lexie Moreland/WWD/Getty Imagesįor top-tier celebs, a T-shirt will do a job that usually requires press releases, Instagram captions and interviews. Julia Fox, who shot to fame after dating Kanye West briefly, wears a ‘Starfucker’ T-shirt.
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